Framing art needs some tips. And it serves best when these tips are creative. Regarding these creative tips, we have something for you.
Since having your artwork professionally framed can be pricey. Learning how to frame your own art could help you save money. Pre-made frames are a less expensive option, but they are only appropriate if your artwork is of a regular size, such A4 or A3. You can create your own frames if you want a practical solution that can handle artwork of unusual sizes. It’s not as difficult as it seems.
Tips on Organizing your tools
To get started, you’ll need to buy a minimal set of tools, but if you start making frames at home. The cost of those tools will be quickly recouped. You can get second-hand equipment of high quality from places like eBay or Gum tree. Since cheap tools typically deliver subpar outcomes. And don’t last as long, when purchasing tools, you usually get what you pay for.
The best purchasing advise I can give is to start constructing frames with whatever tools you already own. Making sure that your tools are clean and your blades are sharp. It will become clear what you need to acquire very quickly. Like with other things, the more you do it, the more you’ll build your own working techniques. After which you can get the instruments that are best for you.
Measuring is important
Make sure the workspace you choose is tidy, flat, and big enough to support the object you are working on completely. Measure your artwork first. Your frame should be the same size as the artwork. If you’re not using a mount board or mat. Naturally, the dimensions of the mount board will decide your frame size if you’re utilizing one.
Put your artwork out of the way after you have the proportions to avoid contamination from glue or dust. I construct a card blank the same size as the artwork I’m framing when working on a particularly priceless piece of art so I can test fit it in the studio.
Assembling tips
Calculate the perimeter of the entire frame by adding your measured width and height dimensions, then multiply that result by two to determine how much moulding you’ll need. To account for the metered edges (the 45-degree cuts that will line up to make the corners of the frame), measure the width of the moulding you’ll be using, multiply this measurement by eight, and then add it to your overall length.
10% more should be added to account for waste. Check your moulding sticks for transit damage or wood knots, and if you find either, cut around it to prevent it from affecting the frame’s final appearance.
Make your lengths
The rebate, a tab of material that protrudes from the bottom of the frame moulding, should be measured from the inside. The aperture that keeps the glass and artwork in place is created by the rebates once the frame is put together. To ensure a tight fit, this must precisely match the dimensions of your artwork.
Aim to cut slightly larger pieces than necessary because once anything is sliced too small, there is little that can be done. It is simple to skim off a few centimetres to fine-tune the size. Therefore, cut the longest lengths first so that you can re-cut them to create one of the smaller sides if you do make a mistake.
Cutting and sizing tips
Molding lengths are cut in two phases. To begin, roughly cut the lengths with a meter saw. Use the sharpest saw blade you can find; the cleaner the cut, the finer the teeth.
It’s worth taking the time to set up your saw so that it cuts accurately; test cuts can be made on some of the extra moulding to check the correctness of the angle and determine whether the finish will be splintered by the saw blade. If this does occur, you can stop it from splintering by wrapping some sticky tape across the area you’re cutting.
Tips on Joining the parts
Using a meter guillotine to finish the moulding cuts will generate a flat, smooth surface that will bind properly and result in a good-looking flawless meter once united. After rough cutting a piece of moulding, use the guillotine to remove a centimetre or two from the edge. Next, check that all the edges are angled at either 45 or 90 degrees.
To ensure that the two length and two breadth pieces you’re using are exactly the same size and the finished frame will be square, hold them back-to-back. To disguise any minor flaws in the join, color the top of the cut edges with a marker before attaching them.
Make sure to join lengths
Test-fit the components to ensure that they fit together smoothly, and if necessary, make small changes. Make sure the surface is clean and level and that the frame is flat by doing this. The faces of the meters should next be joined together using some PVA wood glue. While the glue cures, put a band clamp around the edge of the frame and tighten it to apply even pressure.
Underpin is important
Utilizing a handheld V-nailing tool, drive a nail into the underside of each corner. These metal wedges, which are V-shaped, will draw the frame’s edges together, strengthening it and protecting it from being damaged by the weight of the picture when it is hung on the wall.
Make sure to insert the v-nail into the wood correctly, with the sharper end pointing down into the corner of the back of the frame and the point of the V-shape contacting the angled joint. If your moulding is wide, you should place several v-nails along the joint. Here, I’ve added strength by using two v-nails.
Tips on measuring the glass
That is large enough to accommodate the glass’ entire surface. Use a sharp cutter and a steady, non-slip edge to achieve square, straight cuts. A T-square works well for this.
By placing the square underneath your ruler and shifting it into the proper position. You can measure the glass to match your artwork while keeping in mind the cutter’s own width. Make sure everything is in the right place and that you have enough space around you to cut the entire length of the glass without any obstacles or distractions before you start cutting. This shows a person love for art. Art is very important in life.
